Why knowing how to wash your jeans makes all the difference

Raw denim jeans—whether they're the 16oz Holdfast prisoner pants , the 1958 Roamer 16oz Indigo Pike Brothers, or a classic 1947 Roamer 21oz —are not like other garments. The fabric is tightly woven, surface-dyed with indigo, and undergoes no pre-treatment at the factory. Each wash therefore directly affects the color, stiffness, and fit.

Washing it incorrectly means:

• Do flee the indigo uniformly and lose all natural fades (whiskers, honeycombs).
• Trigger a irreversible shrinkage 3 to 8% on non-sanforized denim.
• Breaking down the cotton fibers and creating tears at points of tension (crotch, knees).
• Clear the pleated that you spent months building.

Conversely, by following the correct procedure, your jeans will increase in value over time. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to wash your jeans properly.

Step 1 — Always turn jeans inside out

This is the number one golden rule, and the simplest to apply. Before putting your jeans in the washing machine or basin, turn them completely inside out , legs inside out, waistband included.

This precaution protects the outer layer—the one with the indigo dye—from rubbing against the drum or other garments. The result: less abrasion, less color loss, and most importantly, the natural creases remain intact . On 16oz denim like our Holdfast prisoner jeans , this single step extends the life of the contrasts by several years.

Remember to close the fly and the belt button to prevent them from catching on the seams.

Step 2 — Choosing the right laundry detergent

Not all laundry detergents are suitable for denim. Harsh detergents, rich in phosphates or optical brighteners, attack the fiber and fade the indigo dye.

Prioritize:

• A laundry detergent soft liquid, neutral, phosphate-free and bleach-free.
• Ideally a laundry detergent special dark colors or "jeans" (Marius Fabre type, Le Chat sensitive, Ecover).
• A reduced quantity Half the recommended dose is sufficient for a single pair of jeans.

Absolutely avoid: bleach, chlorine-based stain removers, and fabric softener . Fabric softener, in particular, leaves a residue that stiffens the fabric and distorts the color. On jeans like the Folsom Prison 14oz white and blue striped jeans, it's also the best way to make the light stripes bleed into the blue stripes.

Step 3 — Cold water only

Hot water is the number one enemy of raw denim. It accelerates the loss of indigo, softens the cotton fiber, and causes unforgiving shrinkage .

The rule: 30°C maximum , ideally cold water straight from the tap. This is enough to remove sweat, dust, and odors without damaging the dye.

Workshop tip: Denim that simply smells "worn" but isn't actually dirty can be aired outside overnight or put in the freezer for 24 hours (yes, it kills bacteria) rather than washed. You'll gain several washes over the life of the pants.

Step 4 — Delicate cycle, gentle spin

If you are machine washing, select:

• Program delicate ou wool (never white cotton).
• Spin drying at 400-600 rpm maximum.
• No pre-wash, no hot pre-wash.

But the best method is still hand washing , laying them flat in a bathtub or large basin. Fill with cold water, add detergent, submerge the jeans inside out, and let them soak for 30 to 45 minutes, gently stirring two or three times. No twisting, no harsh wringing: simply press the fabric against the sides of the tub to remove the water, then roll the jeans in a towel to absorb the excess.

Step 5 — Air dry, never tumble dry

The tumble dryer is prohibited. Its high heat and mechanical agitation will:

• Shrinking unsanforized denim up to a whole size.
• To cook the cotton fiber and make it brittle.
• Destroying the typical vintage cut of a 1963 Roamer 21oz or 16oz prisoner pants.

Instead, hang the jeans by the waistband in the shade , outdoors if possible (a breeze works wonders), inside out for the first few hours, then turn them right side out. Allow 24 to 48 hours for a thick 16oz to 21oz denim to dry completely. Avoid prolonged direct sunlight, which will cause the indigo to dry unevenly.

Workshop tip: fix the color with white vinegar and salt

For the very first wash , or if you are worried that your jeans might transfer color onto other clothes (motorcycle seat, light-colored sofa, white t-shirts under a denim jacket ), there is a traditional and remarkably effective fixing bath:

1. Fill a basin or the bathtub withcold water, enough to submerge the jeans.
2. add half a glass of white vinegar et half a glass of coarse salt.
3. Turn the jeans inside out, and Soak for 1 hour without shaking.
4. Rinse with clear, cold water until the water runs clear.
5. Wring out gently, then air dry.

Vinegar slightly acidifies the dye bath and fixes the indigo molecules to the surface; salt tightens the fibers and limits crocking (color transfer through friction). This method can be used immediately after dyeing and remains safe for the fabric.

How to wash your jeans according to the weight of the denim

Not all jeans have the same needs. Here is the protocol adapted to each weight:

• 11 oz (lightweight, summer): ex. 1963 Roamer 11oz MetalWash every 1-2 months, cold water, quick drying. Breaks easily but also wears out quickly.
• 14 oz (medium): ex. Folsom Prison 14oz blue/white stripedThe vinegar and salt bath is an essential before the first wear to prevent the blue from bleeding onto the white stripes.
• 15-16 oz (heavy workwear): ex. Holdfast 16oz denim prisoner pants, 1958 Roamer 16oz IndigoThis is the ideal weight for the motorcycle. First wash at 30 days, then every 2-3 months.
• 21 oz (heavyweight): ex. 1947 Roamer 21oz IndigoHand washing is strongly recommended. The trousers are so heavy when wet that they distort the shape of the garment by the washing machine.

Frequently Asked Questions — How to wash your jeans

How often should I wash my jeans?
For raw denim, it's recommended not to wash it for the first 30 days, then every 2 to 3 months. For classic sanforized denim, wash it every 5 to 10 wears. Adjust this according to perspiration and motorcycle use.

Do my jeans really shrink in the wash?
Yes, raw, unsanforized denim shrinks by 3 to 8% on the first cold wash, especially in length. That's why you should buy your 16oz prisoner pants with 2 to 3 cm of margin at the bottom if you plan to wash it with water.

Can I wash it with other clothes?
No, definitely not for the first few washes. Indigo will transfer. Wash your jeans alone, or with other dark denim pieces of the same color.

What should I do if I sweat a lot while riding my motorcycle?
Air out your jeans after every outing (hang them outside overnight) and put them in the freezer for 24 hours once a month. This neutralizes bacteria and odors without washing. See our guide How to break in raw denim in 6 months.

My jeans are stained with grease/motor oil, what should I do?
Immediately dab with Sommières clay or Sommières earth (never rub). Leave overnight, brush gently, then wash as usual in cold water. For old stains, apply pure Marseille soap 30 minutes before washing.

Explore more!

Learning how to wash your jeans is only part of the equation. To get the most out of your denim, also read:

• How to break in raw denim: the complete guide in 6 months (with photos)
• 16oz Selvedge Denim: Why it's the ultimate motorcycle pants
• Motorcycle leather care: the complete guide from the Holdfast workshop

And if you're looking for the jeans that will be worth all this care, our Hold Fast 16oz denim prisoner pants remain the signature piece from the Holdfast workshop in Marseille — made in France, vintage biker cut, 100% cotton denim, engraved brass buttons.